Voodoo Knife Set in Blue By RAFFAELE IANELLO. Brand  Voodoo By Raffaele Iannello Product Code  215012

Anyone bought the voodoo knife block set?

Is it worth the money? I don't want to spend all that if the knives are no good. Would anyone recommend it?

Answer by Mr. Grummp

I don't know about the knives, but I do like their "Ex" holder!

What would be the best choice for my next edc knife?

I lost my old knife which was a crappy letherman e301 (i think)

so i need a new knife, which one would be the best?

Gerber Applegate-Fairbairn Covert F.A.S.T

Bencmade Griptillian 551

SOG Flash II TiNi



Best answer:

Answer by Fatefinger
Damn... Personally the benchmade.


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What is a good knife set that does not cost way too much?

For home cooking is what brand of knives are good quality, but not ridiculously priced. Say an 8-14 piece or something that is somwhere between the crappy $ 30 walmart knife sets and the overprices $ 300+ knife sets.

Best answer:

Answer by Neil L
You can buy a J.A. Henkels entry level knife set at walmart. For like $ 80 they are in my opinion the best knife set for your buck.



What do you think? Answer below!

Why do some knives say "stainless steel", when they just rust anyways?

Best answer:

Answer by Bob A
They are a poor grade of stainless.



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Whats a better cooking knife?

Titanium or carbon layered steel. they both say they are the sharpest and strongest knife made but i don't know what one is better


carbon steel- http://www.chefdepot.net/kershaw.htm

titanium- http://www.chefdepot.net/kasumi.htm


Best answer:

Answer by Fredrik IV
Titanium, is stronger better tempered and will stay the sharpest longest.







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Which one better, Stainless steel Knife or Carbon Steel Knife?

First I will explain the difference between the two steels. High carbon steel in its simple form goes back for centuries. In the original smelting process iron bonds together with a small amount of carbon. This is usually between .1% and 1.5%. The higher the carbon content the harder the steel can be made, but it also becomes more brittle.

In history early blacksmiths would use a simple steel that had carbon up to about 1% for making good quality knives. Swords would often have up to about .7% carbon content. This simple alloy of iron and carbon would produce a good cutting edge that did not have to be sharpened often.

If the tempering was done well it would have a good resilience against breaking. The problem is simple iron carbon alloys will rust if not kept clean and dry.

This type of knife was common until about World War II. At this point new alloys were being discovered. An alloy has trace amounts of other elements, such as nickel, chrome, manganese, and molybdenum. These elements are usually added in trace percentages, and can dramatically change the properties of the steel.

Two of the elements that were experimented with were chrome and nickel. Metallurgists discovered that when you add over 10% or more chrome that the steel was highly rust resistant. This became known as stainless steel. Chrome makes the steel much more difficult to cut and grind. Harder to forge or work in general.

There were some obvious advantages of this steel. Great in a wet or corrosive environment as it did not fall apart. Very tough, but it did not hold an edge well. By adding carbon to the mix it would hold an edge fairly well but not as good as a straight high carbon steel.

In working with the various testing alloys they found a steel which is now known as D2. This steel is at the lower end of being stainless as it has 11% chrome but has a very high carbon content of 1.5%. This steel is stain-resistant as it will discolor and rust eventually, but with the extremely high carbon content it holds an edge for a very long time.

D2 is used in modern planner and veneer blades. This tool slices shavings from wood all day long and rarely has to be sharpened. The problem with this steel is that it is fairly brittle. It would make an excellent kitchen knife as long as it was not subject to bending or impact, but it would cut well and hold an edge as well as being stain-resistant.

The stainless steel also stayed shiny. The obvious development from this was stainless steel kitchen knives. This allowed busy cooks to work with their knives and not have to constantly be rinsing them if they were working with acidic foods such as tomatoes. A regular high carbon knife would have to be washed and dried after every use to protect the keen cutting edge.

Stainless could be washed at the end of preparing a meal, with no ill affects. So stainless steel caught on since it was so much easier to maintain in a kitchen household. Now we have many alloys of stainless steel. Good kitchen knives use a high quality high carbon stainless steel.

Stainless Steel is more expensive to make than regular high carbon steel due to the added expense of the chrome element and the added difficulty of working the steel.

You will find many stainless steel kitchen knives are very thin. This is done to keep the cost of mass manufacture down. If D2 was used the knives would have to be a bit thicker to prevent the chance of breaking in normal use. This adds to the expense along with the need for some care of the blade and the effort required to sharpen once it gets dull put it on the back burner for home kitchen use.

Henkel Kitchen Knives use high quality stainless steel and have set an industry standard for quality. Proper tempering and heat treating gives the best edge and flexibility combination for the stainless steel. These knives also are securely constructed for a lifetime of use.

Is stainless steel good for a knife?

Hi I was thinking about buying this knife, but i wasn't sure if it was good because it's stainless steel.
http://www.trueswords.com/butterfly-knife-razor-sharp-blade-p-6529.html

Best answer:Answer by Glutton4PunishmentThis isn't really a question for this section, but I'm still happy to help out since I'm a big cutlery nerd as well.

One thing to look out for when buying a knife is a lack of specifics on what steel is being used. "High Carbon Stainless Steel" doesn't tell you what the steel is, just what it MIGHT be. Chances are it's something along the lines of 420HC or 440A, both of which are softer steels. They aren't the worst steels around, but they are very quick to dull. You'd be better off looking at the Balisongs of Benchmade. They'll cost more, but you'll know that you're getting something made with quality materials and that won't break on you. And if it does break for some odd reason, Benchmade's warranty and customer service are both fantastic.

Although if a more questionable knife is okay with you as long as the price isn't too high, then at least 420HC and 440A aren't too brittle and will take a decent edge even though they'll dull quickly. As for whether stainless steel is good for a knife or not, that depends on the type of stainless steel and what you're going to use the knife for. Many stainless steels are more brittle than a carbon steel, so high carbon stainless steels are a bit more likely to rust but a little tougher as well. In a butterfly knife, a steel like that is a good way to go, although the steels used by Benchmade, as I mentioned, are of a much better quality.

 My Swiss Army Knife's Scissors won't work!!?

The scissors in my Swiss Army Knife won't work, but it isn't because I've misaligned the spring when I've put it in, there's like a dirt/rust stuff in the middle part of the two scissor parts; which unfortunately, I can't get to unless I take them apart which I don't really want to do. I don't think it's to do with rust from water, because:


1. My friend who owns one softly washes his in soapy water every now and again.
2. I thought all of the metals were "Stainless Steel".

So I have absolutely NO idea what is up with it. Someone please help me with this problem because I want everything on my knife to work perfectly, and every time I try to use the scissors and they jam I get annoyed. Does anyone have a solution for this problem, and what it is in my knife?
Thanks in advance!


Best answer:
Answer by JBG
Spray wd-40 on it.


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Does someone know about markings on knifes?

Question by Joan K: Does someone know about markings on knifes?
I have a Solingen (German) Hunting knife. On the tang of the blade above the word 'Solingen' is Schneidfeufel...on the other side of the tang is Rostfrei..Does anyone know what these markings stand for? Is there a website that will answer ?? about knife markings? I am going thru my late husband collection, and have a few ??


Best answer:
Answer by Timothy B
Solingen is a town in Germany that is the home for quite a few knife makers. Don't know what the Schneidfeufel means, but the 'schneid' means cut in German.

Rostfrei means Stainless Steel.

German knives, in my opinion, always will bring a bit more than standard production knives due to their quality.

Hope this helped!


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Questions flow in regularly that include the term, "rostfrei". They usually are something like, "I have some sterling silver knives made by Rostfrei. Can you tell me something about them?"

"Rostfrei" literally means "rust free" in German but it also means "stainless steel" when used on something like a knife blade. So a person who owns a "Rostfrei" knife probably has a knife with a stainless steel blade made in Germany. The handle could also be made of stainless steel or it could be made of wood, bone, sterling, silver plate or something else. Such pieces are made by many different German manufacturers.


The knife blade might have some other words or symbols on it to designate the manufacturer or perhaps city of origin. The knife handle could have some indication stamped on it to define its composition. If the knives are in a set that includes fork or spoons, there might be a better indication of their source on the backs of those pieces.

Best steel for a all purpose knife?

This question gets beat to death from what ive seen online but im going to ask it since im searching for a few new knives. The question is as the titles states what is the best steel for a general purpose knife? I plan on buying several different types of knives, Folders, fixed blades, ect. I will carry them around with me all the time for basically anything i can think of to use it for. The reason i ask this question here is because looking online everyone has a differnt veiw. Some say stainless is too soft while others say carbon will chip and is more brittle. Even looking at just a single type of steel, carbon fort instance everyone has a different opinion as to whats best leaving me kind of lost for what i should get. Maybe the better word would be "What is a good general purpose steel?". Any advice is much appreciated!!!!


Best answer:
Answer by Lance T
There is no right one answer, because the term all purpose knife covers a very broad spectrum. The same knife that would be good for wood carving will not be the same for food prep, and will not be the same for general utility purposes. I'll just give you my humble opinion.

For fixed blade, "hard use" blades. Where you will be doing bush tasks like chopping, carving etc... 1095 carbon is generally the standard.

Now, 1095 is a great steel, it isn't the BEST steel. There are other steels that can outperform it. But for the price and availability its hard to beat.

For folders, I prefer a decent stainless, like aus 8. It holds a good edge, and will hold up to any tasks you need a folding knife to do.

Contrary to what you will read on the internet, stainless steel is not all crap. Its just that cheap stainless is just that, cheap. Stainless steel is only as good as its tempering process, some companies such as boker do amazing things with the steel and make for an impressive blade. Just stay away from crap stainless.

So to sum up.

1095 for fixed blades.
aus 8 for folders.

These are both common steels used by different companies. If you get caught up on finding the perfect steel, you may overlook more important aspects of the knife itself.

Unless your fixed blade is mostly going to be a food processing, and skinning knife, then I would suggest a QUALITY stainless as well. Remember that all high carbon blades need to be kept oiled or they will start to rust very fast.

Btw, I suggest anyone looking into knives to check out mora fixed blades. Incredibly cheap, sharp and durable. They are the rockstars of bushcraft.


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Where can I buy leg-strap sheaths for knives?

I just bought a "The Best Defense 440 Stainless Steel" knife. In which, I dislike the sheath it came with. But anyways, I desire to carry it on my leg. The blade itself is about 8.2-8.3 inches. From the tip of the blade to the end of the handle is slightly over 12 inches (maybe that might help)




Is there any leg-strap sheath available for this knife? (I really hope so)

Also, where can I buy a stone sharperner?

Please let me know about good websites where they sell good knife equipments or knifes itself. Thanks.


Best answer:
Answer by man with the guns
Go to the manufacturers website. If they make a leg strap for it they will more then likely have a few.


What do you think? Answer below!

Best Stainless steel Knife set for cooking?

I'm looking for a really good knife set. I plan on doing a lot of cooking and I don't want anything cheap. Any suggestions hopefully from folks that actually cook for a living. I'm not concerned about price, only quality and longevity.



Best answer:
Answer by libbyami
First, DO NOT buy knife sets...get a couple of great quality/multi-purpose knives. Get knives that feel good in your hand, that are full tang ( meaning the blade goes all the way through the handle ) and are well balanced


What do you think? Answer below!

J.A. Henckels stainless steel knives?

I am a complete knife freak, so trying to decide between J.A. Henckels Classic series and Forged Premio is a little more difficult than it should be.
First, can anyone explain to me what the bar with the little squares in it on the knives is for?
And has anyone tried these knives for themselves?

Thank you!
chutzpah, not the hallowed edge rectangles: by the product info near the hilt.


Best answer:
Answer by chutzpahoney
Those bars you spoke of are to keep food from sticking to the knife. I have used both brands you mentioned, and both are good, but for my money I'll stick with the Henckels; I find them to fit my hand better, and the balance feels good to me.


What do you think? Answer below!

Anyone have a 67 layers sakura knife? are they great as they say?

i cant find any reviews
STAINLESS STEEL 316 AND APPLICATIONS

Best answer:
Answer by RSJ
No, I don't have that one. I've been using my Wusthoff for years- until recently I tried the Calphalon knives- they are really, really nice and I prefer those over the Wusthoff. And you can find Calphalon knives at TJ Maxx.


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Stainless steel knife broke in half ?

i have this knife i really like but the stainless steel metal piece that that you push for the blade to go back in broke in half its a folding knife is there anything out there that is a easy fix like gluing it or is the only way welding it and grinding it down





Best answer:
Answer by Allan Wilkins
You could try and have it welded, but I believe these locks are heated so they spring. Welding it might harden the steel so it won't give anymore. Try writing the company and see if they can help you out with it.


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Is this a good knife?

I'm in the market for a black, spring assisted knife. I'm currently looking at this one, however, is stainless steel not very good at all? It's hard to really find a direct answer online.

http://www.policestore.com/.aspx/sid=77671/pid=41297/Product/S-W-A-T-KNIVES?mc_id=p80000&srch=1&gdftrk=gdfV21820_a_7c323_a_7c3467_a_7c799000010_d_799000010_d_20063

It's primary uses will be for every day usage,(cutting rope/cloth etc.) and if need be, self defense.

So, thoughts?


Best answer:


Answer by Paco
The term "stainless steel" doesn't always mean alot...there are a bunch of grades and types of stainless steel...some are better than others for making knife blades.

If you are looking for good prices and a wide selection on spring assisted knives, you may want to check this place out... They have everything from "cheap" to "very good" spring assisted knives, and at some very attractive prices.

http://www.bladeplay.com/cat--Home--82

.


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 Is anyone familiar with this knife as a WSK or all purpose wilderness tool?

So, I was flipping through a catalog over the Holiday and saw this knife from the 'Rough Rider' brand:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LCRDY2/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B007NW3J2E&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1104SBJ2BJDRR8G55BCZ

It is the 'Saigon Sidekick' and seems a close approximation of the Tom Brown Tracker knife.

I would like feedback on this knife specifically (if possible), or on the Rough Rider brand in general. I've never purchased anything from Rough Rider before and have no idea of the quality. I don't however, feel there is any need to pay approx. $ 200.00 dollars for the Tom Brown knife.

I am aware that it is impractical under most circumstance to enter the bush for any length of time without a hatchet. I also am rarely anywhere without my multitool. I do, however, enjoy going into the bush for several days at a time with very minimal kit. Under these circumstances, I often carry my classic Kabar USMC knife with me, and no other cutting tool. I get by fine with this, but the Kabar design is not the be all, end all and has deficiencies in some areas.

I have a great respect for Tom Brown and I think the knife he designed has some good elements. I believe this knife was created before it was featured in the movie so I don't dismiss it as just a movie prop. Mr. Brown is a master of woodcraft and I like many of the features he incorporated into his design. However, as I said, $ 200.00 for a knife has never seemed necessary to me. When I stumbled upon this Rough Rider version for 1/10 the price, I figured it might be worth it.

My only dislike up front is that it is 440 stainless vs. 1095 Carbon steel. I have grown so accustomed to carbon steel blades that I tend to shy away from stainless. Still, there are many good knives made from stainless. I always feel like I will need a knife I can throw a spark with using just flint, but even I know this is not really needed for short multi-day excursions. Stainless doesn't throw a spark unless using a ferro-rod, but I always carry a ferro-rod, so I'll be fine.

So, just to restate: Any info on this knife? Any info on 'Rough Rider' knives in general?

Thanks.
Thank you, Paco. I didn't know there were different grades of 440 steel. I have a few folders that were made with 440, and they are good blades. I remember when 420 was considered good, then 440 was considered better. To be honest, I couldn't tell you the technical differences, but, as you said, I can certainly tell if a blade holds and edge or not.

For me, ease of sharpening and edge retention are of primary importance. I actually thought the heat treating and RHC was more important for this than simply the type of steel used. This is why I am wary ordering on-line where I can't feel the knife myself. My Kabar I can get shaving sharp (if I were so inclined) and can easily hone the edge in the field with the back of a leather belt. I've yet to find a stainless blade I like as much.

I'm leaving this question open a bit longer to see if anyone has actually used this knife. I am not keen on throwing money away. It is only $ 20.00, but 20 bucks is 20 buck



Best answer:
Answer by Paco
Just to offer my opinion here.... The Rough Rider knives are made in China, and while I admit that I am not familiar with this specific knife, I have generally not been impressed with the Rough Rider knives I have seen... Now I am NOT saying all Chinese made knives are "junk". That used to be generally the case with the majority of Chinese made knives, but is not necessarily so any longer. (In fact the Kershaw I am carrying right now was made in China, but has a blade of 8Cr13MoV stainless steel, a blade steel comparable to AUS-8)... While China still produces a good many "lesser quality" knives, they have also actually been producing some knives of decent to very good quality recently as well. Over all they are improving from what they were just a decade or so ago............ Know too that there are three (3) varieties of "440 Stainless steel"....A, B, and C... Of these, 440C is widely accepted as the best of the bunch, and was, until a couple of decades ago, one of the top quality blade steels on the market, and found primarily in higher end knives, while a knife labeled simply "440 Stainless" was generally the lower quality 440A, or the slightly better 440B. If 440C was used the company was usually proud of this fact, and labeled it as "440C"... A good many higher quality knives today are still made with blades of 440C, altho with all the new high quality blade steels today the price of 440C has come down considerably, but is still considered a top grade stainless blade steel.... Just to toss this in, but due to new methods of heat treating, 440B, in many instances, has been much improved, and is also found in some higher quality blades today, but is still considered inferior to 440C... But 440A, or just "440 Stainless" is still, as a general rule, the lower quality blade steel.... And, as I am sure you realize, the quality of the blade steel is what dictates the quality of the knife. While design will play a part in the usefulness of a knife (depending on what you intend to use it for), it's "looks", or appearance have nothing to do with the knife's quality...... And while the Rough Rider knives I have handled and looked at were good looking knives, I was not impressed with the quality of their blade steel..... To me, if a knife will not take, and hold, a good edge, then I have no use for it, no matter how "pretty" or "cool" it may look.

I need help identifying a small antique silver piece fromSwitzerland?


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Question by ARC: Best way to store swords and knives?

I'm going to be leaving the country for about a year and I need to store my swords and daggers while I'm gone.
They'll be left at my parent's house in a climate controlled environment (my sister's bedroom actually) but I want to pack them up so they don't get dusty or rusty.

INSTALLING STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE HOSES - STAINLESS


Before packing them I'm going to clean them but I'm wondering if packing newspaper around them is a bad idea or not.

Most are stainless steel "I look cool but I'm not worth much" types so I'm not terribly worried about them - a few are worth several hundred dollars though and I want to make sure I'm not ruining them.

Any tips?


Best answer:
Answer by 1Conehead
stainless shouldn't be a problem,best bet is to wrap them in old towels or rags with a light coat of WD 40 ,careful with the handles though.


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